Soy Soi proclaims loudly that it is an “Asian Eatstreet” so we don’t get ideas about going out to a “Chinese restaurant.” It helps that the staff (currently a few from the Chennai original) are in Delhi, talking with excitement about how the menu was based on their three-week trip to Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore and Vietnam (there’s also Burmese and Japanese food).
The vibe: The interiors are non-interfering: dark grey with hints of colour and minimal ‘decor’ by way of dragonflies across a wall. This is a place to eat not look at light fixtures (though the Balinese-inspired ones are pretty).
Do try: Almost everything, because you’d want to come back and try more items from the menu, from the Soto Ayum Madura, an Indonesian clear soup with its delicate flavours; and the Edamame Truffled Dumpling (with waterchestnuts), a must-do even if you’re not veg; to the Sate Ayam Madura (the satay comes with a Chilli Sambal Dip we asked to be left on the table) and the Char Kuay Teow, its dense, slightly-charred flavour to be savoured slowly. Portions and fillings (whether of the baos or the sushi) are generous, and the food juicy, oozing flavour.
Skip: The mocktails, which dilute the flavour of the food. The Sheng Jian Bao, first fried and then steamed, which is slightly doughy. I’d skip the sushi, because we’re accustomed to better in Delhi.
Go with: There are few places that have something for everyone, and this is one. I’d go with a health-food nut and eat the Phak Boong Fai Daeng (wok-tossed morning glory with yellow bean sauce, garlic, and chilli), or for a meal with family and order the Ikan Goreng Nyat Nyat (deep-fried sea bass in a spicy coconut-milk gravy).
Space bar: 1,800 square feet (approximately), 82 covers
How much? ₹2,000 for two (they’re awaiting the liquor license)
Reach: By car, because Ardee Mall, in Gururam’s Sector 52, is not on the Metro line
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Printable version | May 27, 2022 11:41:28 am | https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/soy-soi-as-good-as-it-gets/article29450229.ece